Path Seekers问道中国③｜古蜀道：天堑通途畅达未来

字号:小大 2024-12-07 15:05 来源：苏州新闻网

Nathanael Dwight Pelton, also known by his Chinese name Su Ping, is an American who has lived in China for 19 years. A teacher at Suzhou Foreign Language School, he believes that "knowledge is found not only in books but also in the vast world, and one of the best ways to learn is through firsthand experience". Each year, he takes his students on trips to different countries to immerse themselves in local cultures.

Also a hiking enthusiast, he joined the Path Seekers to explore the ancient Shu Road in the transition from spring to summer. Before setting off, he told his family that this trip was an opportunity to venture onto the most authentic ancient trail, learn about the most authentic Chinese culture, and enjoy the most authentic cuisine—hot pot.

The ancient Shu Road is one of the earliest large-scale transportation relics preserved by humanity and has long been a destination Su Ping yearned to explore on foot. What kind of transportation network was the ancient Shu Road? Why did the people of ancient China choose to cross the formidable Qinba Mountains to construct it? Unlike the Roman roads built on plains, the Shu Road winds through the steep, rugged terrain of the Qinba Mountains. How did they overcome countless obstacles to carve cliffs, build plank roads, construct bridges, and pave stone paths?

With these questions in mind, Su Ping took a train from Jiangsu to Sichuan. Upon arriving, the question marks gradually turned into periods and exclamation points as he witnessed the sights and engaged in in-depth exchanges during his hike.

During the hike, Xinyue, a native of Sichuan, explained that the ancient Shu Road was once lamented as difficult as climbing to the sky. For thousands of years, the people of Sichuan reshaped the landscape with their wisdom and perseverance. The ancient Shu Road became a thing of the past after the opening of the Sichuan-Shaanxi Road in 1936. Since 1949, Sichuan has developed a comprehensive, modern transport network that integrates highways, railways, waterways, and air routes.

Passing through countless tunnels, Su Ping experienced firsthand the perilous nature of the Shu Road. At the Jian’ge section, he found himself surrounded by some of the largest and best-preserved ancient cypress trees in the world, realizing the efforts to connect with the outside world while living in harmony with nature.

As a photography enthusiast, Su Ping used his professional camera to capture the magnificent scenery along the ancient path. His lens documented the lush, ancient cypress trees of Cuiyun Corridor, the Baoji-Chengdu Railway threading through steep mountains, the historic Mingyue (Bright Moon) Gorge that has witnessed six ancient and modern transportation routes, and the steady flow of water beneath stone bridges from the Ming and Qing dynasties, still as robust as ever.

Today, it takes only a few hours to travel from Guangyuan to Chengdu. With international flight routes and freight trains, the regional Ba-Shu culture, represented by Shu brocade, continues to flourish and shines even brighter on the global stage. “The Shu Road is now incredibly accessible!” Su Ping remarked. This impression reflects not only his personal experience but also China’s development achievements, recognized around the world.

在中国生活了19年的美国人苏平（Nathanael Dwight Pelton），现在是苏州外国语学校的老师。因为相信“知识不仅在书本更在广阔的世界中，亲身去体验是极其重要的学习方式。”每年他都会带着学生们去不同国家，深入当地交流。

今年春夏之交，热爱徒步的他，跟随“Path Seekers 问道中国”徒步小组，走进古蜀道。“走最地道的古道，了解最地道的中国文化”，临行前他对家人说，“当然，还有最地道的美食——火锅！”

古蜀道是保存至今人类最早的大型交通遗迹之一，也是苏平心仪已久的徒步目的地。古蜀道是怎样的交通网络？中国古人为何要跨越秦巴山脉修建蜀道？不同于古罗马人在平原上修筑的罗马大道，蜀道分布在秦巴山脉的崇山峻岭中，当年要克服重重障碍凿崖修栈、架桥铺石，是怎样实现的？带着这些疑问，苏平搭乘火车从江苏抵达四川，进川后，这些问号随着徒步中的见闻与深入交流，逐步变为句号与惊叹号。

一路行走，四川当地人郭谢歆悦告诉他，自古“蜀道难，难于上青天”，千百年来，四川先民用智慧与坚韧重塑时空。1936年川陕公路开通以后，古蜀道成为历史。1949年以来，四川又沿着古蜀道线路设计建设了现代公路、铁路、水运和航空等“新蜀道”。

当火车经过一个个隧道，苏平意识到，曾经的蜀道真的“难于上青天”。徒步在剑阁蜀道，置身迄今规模最大、保存最完好的古代人工栽植驿道古柏群，又能体会到先民在想尽办法与外界联通的同时，坚持顺应自然、保护自然。

热爱摄影的苏平，一路用专业相机记录珍贵瞬间。在他的镜头里，有翠云廊千年苍柏枝繁叶茂、有穿过陡峭山洞的宝成铁路、有见证古今六道于此通行的明月峡，还有潺潺流水淌过坚实如初的明清石板桥。

天堑通途，畅达未来。如今，从广元到成都非常方便，几个小时就能到达天府之国感受“巴适”的都市生活。一条条国际航线开通，一趟趟国际班列飞驰，以蜀锦为代表的巴蜀文化在世界舞台更加闪亮。“如今蜀道很通畅！”这是苏平的感受，也是全世界有目共睹的中国经验。